{"id":11547,"date":"2024-04-04T10:00:00","date_gmt":"2024-04-04T10:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/modernsciences.org\/staging\/4414\/?p=11547"},"modified":"2024-03-21T17:44:56","modified_gmt":"2024-03-21T17:44:56","slug":"a-brief-guide-to-clothes-recycling-sustainability-expert-unpicks-how-your-discarded-garments-get-processsed","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/modernsciences.org\/staging\/4414\/a-brief-guide-to-clothes-recycling-sustainability-expert-unpicks-how-your-discarded-garments-get-processsed\/","title":{"rendered":"A brief guide to clothes recycling \u2013 sustainability expert unpicks how your discarded garments get processsed"},"content":{"rendered":"\n  <figure>\n    <img  decoding=\"async\"  src=\"data:image\/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAAAEAAAABAQMAAAAl21bKAAAAA1BMVEUAAP+KeNJXAAAAAXRSTlMAQObYZgAAAAlwSFlzAAAOxAAADsQBlSsOGwAAAApJREFUCNdjYAAAAAIAAeIhvDMAAAAASUVORK5CYII=\"  class=\" pk-lazyload\"  data-pk-sizes=\"auto\"  data-pk-src=\"https:\/\/images.theconversation.com\/files\/582500\/original\/file-20240318-18-8tjjds.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&#038;q=45&#038;auto=format&#038;w=754&#038;fit=clip\" >\n      <figcaption>\n        According to a textile sorter and processor based in the East Midlands, approximately 40% of sorted garments were not fit for reuse and needed a recycling solution.\n        <span class=\"attribution\"><a class=\"source\" href=\"https:\/\/www.shutterstock.com\/image-photo\/fabric-scraps-old-clothing-textiles-cut-1118321324\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NicoleTaklaPhotography\/Shutterstock<\/a><\/span>\n      <\/figcaption>\n  <\/figure>\n\n<span><a href=\"https:\/\/theconversation.com\/profiles\/sajida-gordon-1423755\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Sajida Gordon<\/a>, <em><a href=\"https:\/\/theconversation.com\/institutions\/nottingham-trent-university-1338\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Nottingham Trent University<\/a><\/em><\/span>\n\n<p>Have you ever paused to ponder the fate of those bags of old clothes you carefully deposit into the charity bin at the end of the street or within the bustle of a supermarket parking lot? It\u2019s easy to imagine that those garments get magically transformed into fresh, wearable fashion, but in the UK, the reality is much more complicated. <\/p>\n\n<p>The truth behind clothing donation and recycling is a journey fraught with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.mdpi.com\/2673-7248\/2\/1\/10\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">complexities<\/a> often not visible to the public eye. Textile waste \u2013 the clothing that we all buy, use and dispose of \u2013 is a significant <a href=\"https:\/\/changingmarkets.org\/campaigns\/fossil-fashion\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">environmental problem<\/a> that often goes unnoticed.  <\/p>\n\n<p>Globally 88% of our clothing still ends up <a href=\"https:\/\/earth.org\/statistics-about-fast-fashion-waste\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">in landfills<\/a>. The mountains of textile waste will be getting higher as garment production rises at an alarming rate. In 2000, global manufacturers churned out 50 million tonnes of textiles, according to <a href=\"https:\/\/www.europarl.europa.eu\/topics\/en\/article\/20201208STO93327\/the-impact-of-textile-production-and-waste-on-the-environment-infographics#:%7E:text=The%2520fashion%2520industry%2520is%2520estimated,flights%2520and%2520maritime%2520shipping%2520combined\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">the European parliament<\/a>. By 2020, this figure had more than doubled to 109 million tonnes and global textile production is predicted to grow to 145 million tonnes by 2030.<\/p>\n\n<p>While writing <a href=\"https:\/\/books.google.co.uk\/books?id=6-znEAAAQBAJ&amp;pg=PT86&amp;lpg=PT86&amp;dq=policy+paired+with+technology+sajida+gordon&amp;source=bl&amp;ots=IkDEODrd-1&amp;sig=ACfU3U1Zi0vMoeA3Nkj6jWa3po71E8Jamw&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=2ahUKEwiBsa2QqfaEAxWnUUEAHTWwDPUQ6AF6BAgdEAM#v=onepage&amp;q=policy%2520paired%2520with%2520technology%2520sajida%2520gordon&amp;f=false\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">my chapter<\/a> for the book <a href=\"https:\/\/www.routledge.com\/Recycling-and-Lifetime-Management-in-the-Textile-and-Fashion-Sector\/Niinimaki\/p\/book\/9780367490836\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Recycling and Lifetime Management in the Textile and Fashion Sector<\/a>, I researched the policies and technological advancements that facilitate the process of textile recycling. <\/p>\n\n<p>Used or unwanted clothing gets collected from various sources, including donation centres, textile recycling bins, charity stores or direct from consumers. Once collected, the textiles undergo sorting at UK facilities based on what type of material it is, colour and condition. Garments that are deemed reusable \u2013 those that aren\u2019t stained, soiled or torn \u2013 are <a href=\"https:\/\/theconversation.com\/five-ways-to-reduce-your-household-waste-and-stop-it-being-shipped-to-poorer-countries-154123\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">shipped<\/a> to countries in <a href=\"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/static\/planet4-international-stateless\/2022\/04\/9f50d3de-greenpeace-germany-poisoned-fast-fashion-briefing-factsheet-april-2022.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Africa<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.globalissues.org\/news\/2023\/05\/18\/33821\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Asia<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n<p>However, market sellers in these countries that receive these used garments often complain that the clothing is not fit for resale and ends up <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theguardian.com\/global-development\/2023\/may\/31\/stop-dumping-your-cast-offs-on-us-ghanaian-clothes-traders-tell-eu\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">in a landfill<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n<p>A textile sorter and processor based in the east Midlands told me that approximately 40% of sorted garments were not fit for reuse and needed a recycling solution. <\/p>\n\n<figure class=\"align-center zoomable\">\n            <a href=\"https:\/\/images.theconversation.com\/files\/582501\/original\/file-20240318-20-al5lex.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=45&amp;auto=format&amp;w=1000&amp;fit=clip\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img  decoding=\"async\"  alt=\"colourful heap of clothes in a big pile, blue sky in background\"  src=\"data:image\/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAAAEAAAABAQMAAAAl21bKAAAAA1BMVEUAAP+KeNJXAAAAAXRSTlMAQObYZgAAAAlwSFlzAAAOxAAADsQBlSsOGwAAAApJREFUCNdjYAAAAAIAAeIhvDMAAAAASUVORK5CYII=\"  class=\" pk-lazyload\"  data-pk-sizes=\"auto\"  data-ls-sizes=\"(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px\"  data-pk-src=\"https:\/\/images.theconversation.com\/files\/582501\/original\/file-20240318-20-al5lex.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=45&amp;auto=format&amp;w=754&amp;fit=clip\"  data-pk-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.theconversation.com\/files\/582501\/original\/file-20240318-20-al5lex.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=45&amp;auto=format&amp;w=600&amp;h=572&amp;fit=crop&amp;dpr=1 600w, https:\/\/images.theconversation.com\/files\/582501\/original\/file-20240318-20-al5lex.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=30&amp;auto=format&amp;w=600&amp;h=572&amp;fit=crop&amp;dpr=2 1200w, https:\/\/images.theconversation.com\/files\/582501\/original\/file-20240318-20-al5lex.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=15&amp;auto=format&amp;w=600&amp;h=572&amp;fit=crop&amp;dpr=3 1800w, https:\/\/images.theconversation.com\/files\/582501\/original\/file-20240318-20-al5lex.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=45&amp;auto=format&amp;w=754&amp;h=719&amp;fit=crop&amp;dpr=1 754w, https:\/\/images.theconversation.com\/files\/582501\/original\/file-20240318-20-al5lex.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=30&amp;auto=format&amp;w=754&amp;h=719&amp;fit=crop&amp;dpr=2 1508w, https:\/\/images.theconversation.com\/files\/582501\/original\/file-20240318-20-al5lex.jpg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=15&amp;auto=format&amp;w=754&amp;h=719&amp;fit=crop&amp;dpr=3 2262w\" ><\/a>\n            <figcaption>\n              <span class=\"caption\">Growth in fast fashion feeds into the mountain of textile waste that is hard to recycle.<\/span>\n              <span class=\"attribution\"><a class=\"source\" href=\"https:\/\/www.shutterstock.com\/image-photo\/big-heap-colorful-clothes-184331444\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Nomad_Soul\/Shutterstock<\/a><\/span>\n            <\/figcaption>\n          <\/figure>\n\n<p>Fibre-to-fibre recycling is different to reuse. <a href=\"https:\/\/theconversation.com\/why-secondhand-markets-and-apps-are-not-a-solution-to-clothing-waste-222321\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Reuse means that<\/a> a garment is fit to have a second life and can be donated to charity or resold on websites such as Vinted. Fibre-to-fibre recycling is the process of breaking down the material of the garments so that it returns to its original state of a fibre, which may resemble pieces of fluff. That\u2019s either done mechanically or chemically.<\/p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/reports.fashionforgood.com\/report\/coming-full-circle-innovating-towards-sustainable-man-made-cellulosic-fibres\/chapterdetail?reportid=239&amp;chapter=4#:%7E:text=The%2520mechanical%2520recycling%2520process%2520involves,using%2520a%2520carding%2520process31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Mechanical recycling<\/a> involves chopping up old clothes into tiny pieces \u2013 a bit like shredding paper. Materials are sometimes moistened with water to enhance the tearing process. The fibres are then separated using a process called \u201ccarding\u201d, which involves using a machine to comb out and straighten the fibres, ready to be used to make new products. <\/p>\n\n<p>To <a href=\"https:\/\/www.linkedin.com\/pulse\/3-methods-textile-recycling-dr-tanveer-hussain-gzkdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">transform<\/a> the fibres into textile yarn, mechanically recycled fibres are mixed with virgin fibres \u2013 because these new fibres are <a href=\"https:\/\/www.sciencedirect.com\/topics\/engineering\/fibre-size#:%7E:text=Fiber%2520length%2520After%2520size%252C%2520fiber,either%2520staple%2520or%2520filament%2520length\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">longer<\/a>, they add strength to the yarn when spun.<\/p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/reports.fashionforgood.com\/report\/coming-full-circle-innovating-towards-sustainable-man-made-cellulosic-fibres\/chapterdetail?reportid=239&amp;chapter=4#:%7E:text=The%2520mechanical%2520recycling%2520process%2520involves,using%2520a%2520carding%2520process31\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Chemical recycling<\/a> involves breaking down fragments of old clothes into smaller parts. These are then cleaned and purified using filters and separators. Chemical <a href=\"https:\/\/www.sciencedirect.com\/science\/article\/pii\/S2214993722001270\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">solvents are used<\/a> to break down polymers, remove dyes and dissolve other additives. Once clean, <a href=\"https:\/\/journals.sagepub.com\/doi\/full\/10.1177\/0734242X18819277\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">broken down fibres<\/a> can be spun to make new yarn, just like making cotton from scratch. This recycled yarn can be woven into fabric using industrial weaving machines.<\/p>\n\n<h2 id=\"transforming-textiles\">Transforming textiles<\/h2>\n\n<p>Mechanical recycling produces short lengths of fibre and results in <a href=\"https:\/\/blog.agchemigroup.eu\/the-chemical-recycling-of-clothes-part-1-the-challenges\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">poor quality<\/a> yarn. Relying on raw virgin fibre to add length and strength can be costly. <\/p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/resource.co\/article\/what-chemical-recycling-good-and-bad\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Chemical recycling<\/a> of polyesters, which are made from plastic, can create harmful tiny particles of microplastics in the air and waterways. Volatile organic compounds \u2013 chemicals that exist in gaseous form \u2013 can be inhaled and cause <a href=\"https:\/\/www.sciencedirect.com\/science\/article\/abs\/pii\/S0160412015000082\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">health problems<\/a>, such as damaged liver, kidneys and central nervous system, and cancers affecting the lungs and blood. The process also emits carbon dioxide and methane, both greenhouse gases that contribute to global warming. <\/p>\n\n<p>Expanding these recycling methods is expensive and potentially damaging to the environment. Systematic change begins when influential fashion brands reduce overproduction and waste by streamlining their production processes and <a href=\"https:\/\/circulareconomy.europa.eu\/platform\/sites\/default\/files\/ecodesign_criteria_for_consumer_textiles.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">designing products<\/a> that are easy to recycle as part of a more <a href=\"https:\/\/link.springer.com\/chapter\/10.1007\/978-3-031-49479-6_1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">circular economy<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n<p>While green chemistry and circular design <a href=\"https:\/\/www.sciencedirect.com\/science\/article\/pii\/S2452223622000979\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">solutions<\/a> could make recycling textile waste more efficient, more effective and safer for humans and the planet, the issue of excess waste still needs to be addressed. As shoppers, we can all make a difference by being mindful of our purchasing habits, appreciating the clothing we already own and repairing items instead of discarding them.<\/p>\n\n<hr>\n\n<figure class=\"align-right \">\n            <img  decoding=\"async\"  alt=\"Imagine weekly climate newsletter\"  src=\"data:image\/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAAAEAAAABAQMAAAAl21bKAAAAA1BMVEUAAP+KeNJXAAAAAXRSTlMAQObYZgAAAAlwSFlzAAAOxAAADsQBlSsOGwAAAApJREFUCNdjYAAAAAIAAeIhvDMAAAAASUVORK5CYII=\"  class=\" pk-lazyload\"  data-pk-sizes=\"auto\"  data-ls-sizes=\"(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px\"  data-pk-src=\"https:\/\/images.theconversation.com\/files\/434988\/original\/file-20211201-21-13avx6y.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=45&amp;auto=format&amp;w=237&amp;fit=clip\"  data-pk-srcset=\"https:\/\/images.theconversation.com\/files\/434988\/original\/file-20211201-21-13avx6y.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=45&amp;auto=format&amp;w=600&amp;h=600&amp;fit=crop&amp;dpr=1 600w, https:\/\/images.theconversation.com\/files\/434988\/original\/file-20211201-21-13avx6y.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=30&amp;auto=format&amp;w=600&amp;h=600&amp;fit=crop&amp;dpr=2 1200w, https:\/\/images.theconversation.com\/files\/434988\/original\/file-20211201-21-13avx6y.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=15&amp;auto=format&amp;w=600&amp;h=600&amp;fit=crop&amp;dpr=3 1800w, https:\/\/images.theconversation.com\/files\/434988\/original\/file-20211201-21-13avx6y.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=45&amp;auto=format&amp;w=754&amp;h=754&amp;fit=crop&amp;dpr=1 754w, https:\/\/images.theconversation.com\/files\/434988\/original\/file-20211201-21-13avx6y.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=30&amp;auto=format&amp;w=754&amp;h=754&amp;fit=crop&amp;dpr=2 1508w, https:\/\/images.theconversation.com\/files\/434988\/original\/file-20211201-21-13avx6y.png?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=15&amp;auto=format&amp;w=754&amp;h=754&amp;fit=crop&amp;dpr=3 2262w\" >\n            <figcaption>\n              <span class=\"caption\"><\/span>\n              \n            <\/figcaption>\n          <\/figure>\n\n<p><strong><em>Don\u2019t have time to read about climate change as much as you\u2019d like?<\/em><\/strong>\n<br><em><a href=\"https:\/\/theconversation.com\/uk\/newsletters\/imagine-57?utm_source=TCUK&amp;utm_medium=linkback&amp;utm_campaign=Imagine&amp;utm_content=DontHaveTimeTop\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Get a weekly roundup in your inbox instead.<\/a> Every Wednesday, The Conversation\u2019s environment editor writes Imagine, a short email that goes a little deeper into just one climate issue. <a href=\"https:\/\/theconversation.com\/uk\/newsletters\/imagine-57?utm_source=TCUK&amp;utm_medium=linkback&amp;utm_campaign=Imagine&amp;utm_content=DontHaveTimeBottom\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Join the 30,000+ readers who\u2019ve subscribed so far.<\/a><\/em><!-- Below is The Conversation's page counter tag. Please DO NOT REMOVE. --><img  loading=\"lazy\"  decoding=\"async\"  src=\"data:image\/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAAAEAAAABAQMAAAAl21bKAAAAA1BMVEUAAP+KeNJXAAAAAXRSTlMAQObYZgAAAAlwSFlzAAAOxAAADsQBlSsOGwAAAApJREFUCNdjYAAAAAIAAeIhvDMAAAAASUVORK5CYII=\"  alt=\"The Conversation\"  width=\"1\"  height=\"1\"  style=\"border: none !important; box-shadow: none !important; margin: 0 !important; max-height: 1px !important; max-width: 1px !important; min-height: 1px !important; min-width: 1px !important; opacity: 0 !important; outline: none !important; padding: 0 !important\"  referrerpolicy=\"no-referrer-when-downgrade\"  class=\" pk-lazyload\"  data-pk-sizes=\"auto\"  data-pk-src=\"https:\/\/counter.theconversation.com\/content\/225696\/count.gif?distributor=republish-lightbox-basic\" ><!-- End of code. If you don't see any code above, please get new code from the Advanced tab after you click the republish button. The page counter does not collect any personal data. More info: https:\/\/theconversation.com\/republishing-guidelines --><\/p>\n\n<hr>\n\n<p><span><a href=\"https:\/\/theconversation.com\/profiles\/sajida-gordon-1423755\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Sajida Gordon<\/a>, Researcher for the Clothing Sustainability Research Group and Lecturer Nottingham Trent University, <em><a href=\"https:\/\/theconversation.com\/institutions\/nottingham-trent-university-1338\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Nottingham Trent University<\/a><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n\n<p>This article is republished from <a href=\"https:\/\/theconversation.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The Conversation<\/a> under a Creative Commons license. Read the <a href=\"https:\/\/theconversation.com\/a-brief-guide-to-clothes-recycling-sustainability-expert-unpicks-how-your-discarded-garments-get-processsed-225696\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">original article<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"According to a textile sorter and processor based in the East Midlands, approximately 40% of sorted garments were&hellip;\n","protected":false},"author":776,"featured_media":11520,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","fifu_image_url":"","fifu_image_alt":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[17],"tags":[313,181,474],"class_list":{"0":"post-11547","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-math-and-the-sciences","8":"tag-chemistry","9":"tag-recycling","10":"tag-the-conversation","11":"cs-entry","12":"cs-video-wrap"},"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/modernsciences.org\/staging\/4414\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11547","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/modernsciences.org\/staging\/4414\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/modernsciences.org\/staging\/4414\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/modernsciences.org\/staging\/4414\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/776"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/modernsciences.org\/staging\/4414\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=11547"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/modernsciences.org\/staging\/4414\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11547\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":11548,"href":"https:\/\/modernsciences.org\/staging\/4414\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11547\/revisions\/11548"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/modernsciences.org\/staging\/4414\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/11520"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/modernsciences.org\/staging\/4414\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=11547"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/modernsciences.org\/staging\/4414\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=11547"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/modernsciences.org\/staging\/4414\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=11547"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}